Panama (somewhat) encompassed

Famed as the 'adventure capital' of Panama, Boquete is a mountainous, coffee-growing region situated in the foothills of Volcan Baru. From here, travellers can go white water rafting, hiking, visit hot springs and coffee plantations and even climb up Volcan Baru - for those who attempt this epic 8-hour trek, the reward is a view of both the Pacific and Caribbean sea - if it's not cloudy. For all these reasons, Boquete seemed like a natural next stop, and a minor break from the coast and beaches that have comprised my trip so far. At 1200m above sea level, Boquete gets a lot of rain and the lush mountains are often hidden in the clouds - it reminded me a lot of misty Nyanga in Zimbabwe. I had a relaxing few days here, with visits to a coffee plantation and to the nearby hot springs. The town is a nice mix of people, having evolved in recent decades due to a high percentage of Americans retiring in Boquete due to the pleasant climate. The coffee plantation I visited was being run by a retired couple from San Francisco - certainly an interesting project to take up later in life!

My original plan was to do a small loop into Panama to visit Bocas del Toro and Boquete, before heading back into Costa Rica and continuing my journey north. This proved shortsighted, as everyone I met told me I would be nuts to leave Panama without visiting Panama City and venturing out to the San Blas islands. So, a mere 8-hour bus journey later, I arrived in Panama City and found my way to a hostel in Casco Viejo, the historic district. Many people say that out of all the capital cities in Central America, Panama City is the one not to miss due to its fascinating contrasts. A thriving economic hub since the construction of the Panama Canal, modern skyscrapers today dominate the skyline while the dilapidated colonial buildings of Casco Viejo are being slowly restored to their former glory. Rundown and ragged, there is a sense of a vibrant history and passion that won't sink quietly under the encroachment of the modern world.

From Panama City, most travellers either sail down to Colombia, or take a few days in the San Blas Archipelago, a series of 378 islands of which only 49 are inhabited by the fiercely independent Kuna Indians. The Kunas run all the islands as an autonomous province with minimal interference from the national government, have maintained their own economic system, language, customs and culture, with distinctive dress, legends, music and dance and thus have avoided traditional tourism development. This may be true in most parts of the San Blas, but unfortunately the affordable islands that are frequented by backpackers have certainly been influenced by the outside world and are beginning to be affected with litter, albeit hidden behind the Kunas' huts. The chief on my island spent a good twenty minutes talking to me about America's Next Top Model, while Adele's music proved inescapable even in this part of the world. I have no doubt that a more traditional way of life exists but, perhaps as it should be, it is very difficult, and expensive, to stay on such an island.

The San Blas, and indeed Panama and Central America as a whole, are extremely popular with Israelis who travel following completion of their military service. Several islands are designated as Israeli hotspots and other nationalities are warned to avoid these by locals and tour agencies! The island I was on, Naranjo Chico, only accepted Israeli couples, rather than big groups, so there were 3 Israeli couples, a Swedish couple and 2 Canadian girls, which was a lovely mix. The accommodation was basic, with beach cabanas offering only a mattress and sand floor - but what else do you need?

This part of Panama is extremely hot and humid with temperatures averaging about 32C every day, and an almost guaranteed thunderstorm every evening, and we had one full stormy day where we all read, a lot. Overall it was extremely relaxing and at the time of writing, I am back in Panama City psyching myself up for a long bus journey back into Costa Rica - more to follow!